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post #1 of 18 Old 07-17-2014, 06:22 PM Thread Starter
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location of Starter Fuse or Relay for Starter, dead engine not turning over

A brief history, I have a 2005 Honda Accord 2.4L V4. Over the last month the engine had trouble turning over. Battery/Alternator tested fine. Today, the car will not turn over at all. The interior lights/headlights/dashboard lights turn on when I turn the key, but nothing to the engine. I've been reading about this problem and it seems to be an issue with the starter.

Replacing the starter itself is my last resort, I hope its simply a bad fuse or relay. However, after googling "2005 starter fuse location" I am still stumped as to what fuse/relay to check. Interior or exterior or number would be very helpful.

On a side note, I tried removing under the hood #50 (top left) but I could not get that to budge at all after removing the screw. Is that supposed to come out? I wouldnt want to break something.

Any help would be greatly appreciated, thank you.

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post #2 of 18 Old 07-17-2014, 06:44 PM Thread Starter
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Thank you. Sorry to say I dont have a way to add 12V's, so Ill be riding my bike to Autozone to get a replacement if the fuse is blown.

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post #3 of 18 Old 07-17-2014, 06:45 PM
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22 under the hood is the starter.



You can also try this:


Add 12v directly to the starter for a few seconds to see if it runs.

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post #4 of 18 Old 07-17-2014, 06:57 PM Thread Starter
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Thank you so much, I'll take a look now.
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post #5 of 18 Old 07-17-2014, 06:59 PM
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Have you tried to bang on the starter yet? Beat it a few times with something hard.

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post #6 of 18 Old 07-17-2014, 07:18 PM
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Looks like the starter is the i4's Achilles heel, usually when I see starter issues it's an i4.

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post #7 of 18 Old 07-17-2014, 08:55 PM
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How many miles on your car? Which climate do you live in?

Also, maybe nothing but don't forget to check the battery cables- especially the one to the starter. They can corrode and weaken/loosen enough that it won't turn a starter.

NightFire just went through a starting issue....I just saw a thread on here recently about the starter's electrical contacts failing, not the "motor portion".
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post #8 of 18 Old 07-18-2014, 04:43 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RickBlaine View Post
How many miles on your car? Which climate do you live in?

Also, maybe nothing but don't forget to check the battery cables- especially the one to the starter. They can corrode and weaken/loosen enough that it won't turn a starter.

NightFire just went through a starting issue....I just saw a thread on here recently about the starter's electrical contacts failing, not the "motor portion".
Throughout my experience, almost 9/10 times the failing point on starters is worn carbon brushes. These are dirt cheap. I've noticed a tendency where most US shops prefer to deal with replacing the whole starter rather than tear it open to fix whatever component is failing. My 92 pathfinder still has the original starter in it (replaced carbon brushes twice), just yesterday, I got my 80 celica's original nippondenso starter fixed in the same manner. On my Accord ironically, the one time I decided to replace the starter, I get a dud.

The part looks like this: Usually the repair involves replacing the whole brush holder with new carbon brushes included rather than soldering new carbon brushes on the existing holder.



Friction on these causes them to wear to the point where conductivity is impaired and the starter might start to engage slower or in some instances not crank at all.

Many household appliances like drills use the same brushes and fail in the same manner.

Notice how the brushes are in constant friction.



The symptoms might be mistaken for a bad battery, because usually a stronger battery will give worn brushes a little more life, up to a point where the wear is significant enough where it won't crank anyway. On my pathfinder upon fixing the brushes I got like 6 months out of a battery I thought was done.

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post #9 of 18 Old 07-18-2014, 05:36 PM
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I've noticed a tendency where most US shops prefer to deal with replacing the whole starter rather than tear it open to fix whatever component is failing.
I think it makes more sense to replace it if you brought it to a shop. 1.4 hours book rate for replacement vs 2.1 hours for overhaul/rebuild. Any savings for rebuilding is eaten up by extra labor. Labor rates for shops are over $120/hour here in Cali

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post #10 of 18 Old 07-18-2014, 05:57 PM
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Originally Posted by 2006accord4 View Post
I think it makes more sense to replace it if you brought it to a shop. 1.4 hours book rate for replacement vs 2.1 hours for overhaul/rebuild. Any savings for rebuilding is eaten up by extra labor. Labor rates for shops are over $120/hour here in Cali
Yeah, I guess it's one (or the only?) of the perks of living in a 3rd world country haha. Paid $40 bucks for parts/labor to rebuild it. Balances out the $6.30 I'm paying per gallon of "premium" 85 octane gas.

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post #11 of 18 Old 12-30-2016, 01:42 PM
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Originally Posted by 2006accord4 View Post
Have you tried to bang on the starter yet? Beat it a few times with something hard.
Can anyone help me find the thing? I need to be careful what I bang on. I have a 2006 Accord 2.4L.

Thanks

Quote:
Originally Posted by 2006accord4 View Post
22 under the hood is the starter.



You can also try this:


Add 12v directly to the starter for a few seconds to see if it runs.
I know this is a dumb question but how do I remove it? Use the fuse puller and pull hard on on side and then the other?

Last edited by namegoeshere; 12-30-2016 at 08:46 PM.
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post #12 of 18 Old 12-30-2016, 02:27 PM
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Originally Posted by starterhelp View Post
Can anyone help me find the thing? I need to be careful what I bang on. I have a 2006 Accord 2.4L.

Thanks
It's behind the intake manifold, (the four pipes at the front of your engine. If you google "Accord 2.4 starter," you will be able to see exactly what it looks like. When mine was going, a couple of firm taps with a socket extension was all it took.

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post #13 of 18 Old 12-30-2016, 03:00 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AccordSam View Post
It's behind the intake manifold, (the four pipes at the front of your engine. If you google "Accord 2.4 starter," you will be able to see exactly what it looks like. When mine was going, a couple of firm taps with a socket extension was all it took.
Thanks. From what I can tell as I face the engine only the right side of the starter (it looks like silver colored cast iron) is exposed enough to tap with anything. Will tapping on that exposed part possibly be enough or are people removing the manifold to tap on the main part (smoother looking steel)?

Edit: I think I found it by looking under the bottom of the manifold (it is a Mitsuba part ) and tapping the main part of the starter as hard as I could (which wasn't very hard because I had trouble getting good access to it) finally got it to try and start the engine (I could get it to turn over once or twice) so I guess I wondering how to get a better angle on it to tap it harder.
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post #14 of 18 Old 12-30-2016, 03:24 PM
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What the tapping does is to jar loose a stuck solenoid, if the hard tapping make it work then you at least have a temporary fix, but the starter will need to be replaced.

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post #15 of 18 Old 12-30-2016, 03:29 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Aviography View Post
What the tapping does is to jar loose a stuck solenoid, if the hard tapping make it work then you at least have a temporary fix, but the starter will need to be replaced.

The starter has been struggling recently and I guess it finally died today. I am just trying to see if I can get it started on my own in order to drive it to the shop and have them put in a new starter.

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