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post #1 of 20 Old 06-29-2014, 06:08 PM Thread Starter
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Intermittent AC Issue

2007 Honda Accord 2.4l 102k miles on it.
Intermittent AC Issue. When car is cold it works after driving around for 30 min it starts blowing hot air. Each morning it works fine.

What should i focus on? I notice that when it's blowing hot compressor is not engaging, you don't hear the click. Could it be relay? Would these symptoms be of a bad relay?

If it's a bad compressor would it work at all?

Thank in advance,

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post #2 of 20 Old 06-29-2014, 06:17 PM
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The things to check.

1. Make sure both Cooling Fans are turning when the compressor is engaged.
2. When the compressor does not come on measure the wire at the compressor to see if there is power at the connector.


The compressor relay is controlled by the ECU with feeds from the pressure switch and the temperature sensor on the evaporator. The first thing to look at is the relay and make sure it is working.


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post #3 of 20 Old 06-29-2014, 06:27 PM Thread Starter
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Thanks will do.

If the freon was low would compressor turn on for some time and shut down to prevent damage to it after some time?

Reason i asked is that i took it to the shop and they claimed it was low on freon, filled it, worked again for 15 min (it was 90 deg out) and back to blowing hot.
Could freon have leaked out in 15 min? I don't hear any large hissing noises anywhere.
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post #4 of 20 Old 06-29-2014, 08:18 PM
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The low pressure switch is designed not to allow the clutch to engage when the pressure is less then about 25psi, this is designed to prevent damage to the compressor. Also there is a second switch that opens when the pressure exceeds about 480. What you should do is hook up some gauges to the A/C and see what the static pressure is, depending on the temperature it will be between 100 and 200 psi that shows there is still some liquid in the system below those values I would assume a leak. If the fans are not turning the pressure in the system will skyrocket quickly, so it is imperative that both fans are turning when the A/C clutch is engaged

Current Honda vehicles
2010 Acura RDX Turbo AWD/Tech 67k miles - Daily Driver
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Former Honda Vehicles
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post #5 of 20 Old 06-29-2014, 08:38 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by denci View Post
2007 Honda Accord 2.4l 102k miles on it.
Intermittent AC Issue. When car is cold it works after driving around for 30 min it starts blowing hot air. Each morning it works fine.

What should i focus on? I notice that when it's blowing hot compressor is not engaging, you don't hear the click. Could it be relay? Would these symptoms be of a bad relay?

If it's a bad compressor would it work at all?

Thank in advance,
We are seeing a TON of relay problems. So much that i purchased one for my tool box to plug it into a car as a quick diagnostic check. Find the relay with the map on the bottom of the cover of the underhood fuse box. then compare the number on that relay to another to make sure its the same. try to find a relay that isnt vital. (horn relay ect. the goal is not to pull the fan relays or and major system relay) Then swap them.

Also, have you put any "magic A/C super stop leak" or anything stupid like that into your system? if you did, your totaly screwed. I replaced an ENTIRE system two weeks ago cause some dip-stick at a gas station tried one of these products. (compressor, condensor, receiver drier, evaporator, expansion valve, and every single line/pipe) At least the customer drove away with a brand new system.

IF the relay didnt fix it and you have a 2 wire a/c pressure switch, jump the terminals on the connector and see if it turns on. I cant recall if you have a 2 or three wire switch. if its a 3 wire DONT TOUCH IT. There is a way to jump it but if you supply power to the sensor ground you can fry the ECM.

I can look up the location and terminal count for you tomorrow if you like. remind me with a pm

Quote:
Originally Posted by greg1c View Post
The low pressure switch is designed not to allow the clutch to engage when the pressure is less then about 25psi, this is designed to prevent damage to the compressor. Also there is a second switch that opens when the pressure exceeds about 480. What you should do is hook up some gauges to the A/C and see what the static pressure is, depending on the temperature it will be between 100 and 200 psi that shows there is still some liquid in the system below those values I would assume a leak. If the fans are not turning the pressure in the system will skyrocket quickly, so it is imperative that both fans are turning when the A/C clutch is engaged
great and accurate info

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post #6 of 20 Old 06-30-2014, 04:55 PM
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try a relay.

if it still acts up I'd suspect moisture in the system or the system is overcharged. moisture causes the expansion valve to freeze and can cause excessive high side pressure at that point which will disable the system. overcharging just causes high side pressure to go to high.

both are fixed the same way but the moisture is fixed with extended vacuum time - for a moisture concern vacuum a minimum of 60min.
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post #7 of 20 Old 06-30-2014, 05:05 PM
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If you're looking to DIY, you can build a nice vacuum pump from a window A/C or refrigerator compressor. Wire it up, work up some fittings and it'll pull a real nice vacuum that will boil out any moisture.
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post #8 of 20 Old 07-01-2014, 06:55 PM Thread Starter
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It turned out to be a relay. Replaced it and still working fine. Thanks everyone. I just got one from auto store and not honda oem, so hope it holds up.
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post #9 of 20 Old 07-02-2014, 06:02 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by denci View Post
It turned out to be a relay. Replaced it and still working fine. Thanks everyone. I just got one from auto store and not honda oem, so hope it holds up.
I am experiencing similar issues with my AC. It will usually only work when I have the temp set to LO and AUTO on. When it decides to work it will be freezing cold in the car. But as soon as I adjust the temp or fan speed it will start to blow out warm humid air.

Sometimes if it is not working I can trick it by pressing the OFF button, wait a few seconds then hit AUTO to turn it back on. Some days nothing works so I just have to turn it off and roll down the windows.

Lately in Raleigh it has been in the 90's and 100's with high humidity.

I was curious about the relay mentioned above. Where did you buy it from and approx how much was it? I have been trying to get my husband to try to fix the issue but he gets too focused on his car. So I decided to do some research myself. We are limited on funds so I was hoping for an inexpensive fix.
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post #10 of 20 Old 07-02-2014, 07:58 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by HondaTechAV6 View Post
try a relay.

if it still acts up I'd suspect moisture in the system or the system is overcharged. moisture causes the expansion valve to freeze and can cause excessive high side pressure at that point which will disable the system. overcharging just causes high side pressure to go to high.

both are fixed the same way but the moisture is fixed with extended vacuum time - for a moisture concern vacuum a minimum of 60min.
This. Assuming there's no leak in the system.

Quote:
Originally Posted by hnc1204
I was curious about the relay mentioned above. Where did you buy it from and approx how much was it? I have been trying to get my husband to try to fix the issue but he gets too focused on his car. So I decided to do some research myself. We are limited on funds so I was hoping for an inexpensive fix.
The AC relay can be purchase through an online store like or and the cost should be around 4-7USD plus shipping.

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post #11 of 20 Old 07-02-2014, 08:04 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 03UC1 View Post
The AC relay can be purchase through an online store like or and the cost should be around 4-7USD plus shipping.
Got mine at PepBoys for around 10 bucks.

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post #12 of 20 Old 07-02-2014, 08:09 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Drew03Accord View Post
Got mine at PepBoys for around 10 bucks.
Not bad, and don't have to wait for shipping

For those looking for the OEM Honda AC Relay, I suggest looking at Part number: 39794-SDA-A05. Please double check that it fits your Accord, before making the purchase.

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post #13 of 20 Old 07-02-2014, 10:50 AM
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I had scanned my reciept from 2010. The relay is BWD accessory relay R3154. It was actually $5.99 back then. LOL

Advance $10

Pep Boys $10.99

Oreilly "call for price"...

I wouldn't even bother going OEM if they cost much more. They (OEM) seem to be a common failure part and it's just a cheap relay. Mine has been working for over four years now.
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post #14 of 20 Old 07-02-2014, 04:43 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 03UC1 View Post
This. Assuming there's no leak in the system.



The AC relay can be purchase through an online store like or and the cost should be around 4-7USD plus shipping.

i just wanted to point out that i work at bernardi honda and i always get a kick out of hearing how many people shop for parts on their site. i didnt know how big we were until i joined here. hysterical!

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post #15 of 20 Old 07-02-2014, 04:48 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hnc1204 View Post
I am experiencing similar issues with my AC. It will usually only work when I have the temp set to LO and AUTO on. When it decides to work it will be freezing cold in the car. But as soon as I adjust the temp or fan speed it will start to blow out warm humid air.

Sometimes if it is not working I can trick it by pressing the OFF button, wait a few seconds then hit AUTO to turn it back on. Some days nothing works so I just have to turn it off and roll down the windows.

Lately in Raleigh it has been in the 90's and 100's with high humidity.

I was curious about the relay mentioned above. Where did you buy it from and approx how much was it? I have been trying to get my husband to try to fix the issue but he gets too focused on his car. So I decided to do some research myself. We are limited on funds so I was hoping for an inexpensive fix.
im the guy with the wrench, so i dont know a hell of a lot about pricing, but i assure you a relay is gonna be in the 5-20 dollar range, and an orangutan could install in. it sits in your underhood fuse box. you have many relays in the car so you have to be able to identify which one it is. On the fuse box cover, there is a little "map" of sorts you can use to figure out which one it is. It wont spell it out, but it has a "snowflake" as a symbol.


-Takeda SRI
-aFe TBS+thermals
-P&P Runners
-P2R Intake Riser+thermals (1" total)
-Port-match heads (Intake Side Only)
-XLR8 V2 J-Pipe w/cat delete
-Megan Racing OE-RS Cat Back
-ZEX 50HP
-Ingalls "STIFFY" torque damper
-Cosmo Racing Short Shifter
-Slave check vlv delete
-TS shift cable bushings
-HFP susp
-TL 20mm RSB
-Megan Racing R camber+radius arms
-Smooth-On 60A Poly Filled Comp Bushings
-20mm F & 25 mm R spacers
-StopTech drilled & slotted
-Ktuner
-VitViper Tune
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