tested good alternator, new battery, still have battery light - Drive Accord Honda Forums | radio-pro.ru
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post #1 of 12 Old 05-09-2014, 11:17 AM Thread Starter
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tested good alternator, new battery, still have battery light

Hello, I started having problems with my 03 accord v6 coupe just yesterday where it had a lazy start with a 3 year old battery. I had everything tested same day and 1st result was "come back when your terminals are cleaned up" so I cleaned them up and let it sit over night. The direct voltage from the battery went from 11.8 to 9.3 sitting over night. So today I take out the alternator and take to Bennett auto supply where it tested good at 13.9 volts. So we retested the battery and the dude said it's hold about half charge. Okay so I got a new batter and reinstalled the old good alternator and I still have a battery light. Note::. This light turns off over 3k rpm and turns back on under 3k rpm. Any advise????

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post #2 of 12 Old 05-09-2014, 11:45 AM
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first pull the neg cable and look for a small spark when you remove it. if you have a light under the hood remove the bulb first. if no spark there should be no draw on the battery, but you do since the battery is low.

now comes some time . actually alot of time. this is very low tech. you start pulling 1 fuse at a time. pull the cable off. still a spark when removing it put the fuse back in. keep doing this till the spark does not happen. see what the fuse protects, and at least you know what system has a short/draw with the key off.

if you have a alarm pull that fuse first. it will have power with the key off.


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post #3 of 12 Old 05-09-2014, 12:06 PM Thread Starter
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[QUOTE=shaggy;2682866

You start pulling 1 fuse at a time. pull the cable off. still a spark when removing it put the fuse back in. keep doing this till the spark does not happen. see what the fuse protects, and at least you know what system has a short/draw with the key off.
.[/QUOTE]

From which fuse box? The one inside the car? Or the one under hood?
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post #4 of 12 Old 05-09-2014, 12:15 PM
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both. start with the under hood one. easier access. then move to the under dash one. it takes some time, but you will narrow it down to where the draw is coming from. enlist someone to help when you goto the under dash fuse block.

i hope its a easy fix when you locate the system that has the draw.

2011 Accord 4 door EX
4 cylinder
5 speed/OD A/T
31,245 miles

Traded in
2005 Accord 4 door EX
4 Cylinder
5 speed/OD A/T
98,000 + miles
Purchased 28 Oct 2013 and as requested by RickBlaine took possession at 5:35 PM LOL! SERIOUSLY. I had to sign my name stating the time i took possession of her!

Retired
'91 Accord Wagon LX
4 cylinder
4 speed A/T
136,000 + miles
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post #5 of 12 Old 05-09-2014, 04:52 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by shaggy View Post
both. start with the under hood one. easier access. then move to the under dash one. it takes some time, but you will narrow it down to where the draw is coming from. enlist someone to help when you goto the under dash fuse block.

i hope its a easy fix when you locate the system that has the draw.
Thanks!! I really appriciate the advise. Oh and quick question. I noticed after everything today that my A/c took a turn for the worse (just not cold anymore) could any of my actions today kinda cause my ac to just stop blowing cold air? And I'll post tomorrow what the draw is.
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post #6 of 12 Old 05-09-2014, 09:24 PM
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Check for a parasitic draw look up how to do it you'll know if you have something staying on. Also check your harmonic balancer it's two pieces of metal glued together by rubber if rubber breaks the pulley just spins on the crankshaft and doesn't spin as fast as it should. Check that because I had one the other day same concern an that's what the problem is an also with ac not cold that could be front crank pulley also since it wouldn't be spinning compressor as fast as needed to make it cold that's my best guess. Good luck

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post #7 of 12 Old 05-09-2014, 09:56 PM
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This issue has gone off the rails? A sitting voltage of 11.8 is a Dead battery, the only thing you can do is charge it and see if it a charging problem. But now you have a good battery and a "tested" alternator. I would verify that your connections to the battery are solid and clean as well as the connection on the ground of the body as well. You could easily have a bad battery cable and that is creating your issue.

First things first

1. Check the charge on the "new" battery voltage should be at or above 12.6v, if it is below the battery needs to be charged.
2. Start the car and check the voltage at the battery and make sure it is 13.2v or above
3. Rev the engine to about 3k and check the voltage should rise to about 14.1v
4. Turn on the headlights, A/C, rear defroster, heated seats, etc and check the voltage at the battery it should still be 13.2v and above.

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post #8 of 12 Old 05-13-2014, 04:13 AM
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he had the alt checked. is good. yes it mite be in the wiring, but i doubt that. that's why i told him to pull the neg bat cable and look for a spark. if so to start pulling 1 fuse at a time to see if the spark goes away. replace then the next, and so on till he finds the 1 that has a draw with the key off. your checks will defiantly help, and not hurt, but it has been checked as good already, so there's a circuit still draining power. only way i know how to find the draw is the above way.

as far as the ac now not working check its fuse. if good check to see if the ac clutch is spinning when turned on. if it is you may need a recharge/checked for leaks.

2011 Accord 4 door EX
4 cylinder
5 speed/OD A/T
31,245 miles

Traded in
2005 Accord 4 door EX
4 Cylinder
5 speed/OD A/T
98,000 + miles
Purchased 28 Oct 2013 and as requested by RickBlaine took possession at 5:35 PM LOL! SERIOUSLY. I had to sign my name stating the time i took possession of her!

Retired
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post #9 of 12 Old 05-13-2014, 09:19 AM
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There is nothing in this thread that states a parasitic draw problem. He had a 3 year old battery go from 11.8v to 9.3v overnight. He also stated the connections were dirty and he cleaned them up, a battery sitting at 11.8 is dead, if that voltage drops further it is still dead. You can not test with a dead battery. So he replaced the battery and now his alternator light is on whenever the rpms are below 3k. So something is going on in the electrical system it could be a bad ELD as that is the device that controls charging and determines if the alternator light is on or off.

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Current Honda vehicles
2010 Acura RDX Turbo AWD/Tech 67k miles - Daily Driver
2013 Accord EX-L I4 Auto 53k miles Black Pearl - Wife's car
2005 Acura TSX Auto 208k miles - Youngest Daughter
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Former Honda Vehicles
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1995 GSR sold miles
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post #10 of 12 Old 05-13-2014, 09:35 AM
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ok. i'm out then. i'll let you help him then. never clamed to be the brightest crayon in the box. i figured there was a draw with the key off. he did say it lost voltage over night. i don't think he left the key on over night, so my thoughts are it has something drawing power over night.

i'm wrong.

OP
i hope you find the problem soon. i'll just keep a eye on this so i can learn something new.

2011 Accord 4 door EX
4 cylinder
5 speed/OD A/T
31,245 miles

Traded in
2005 Accord 4 door EX
4 Cylinder
5 speed/OD A/T
98,000 + miles
Purchased 28 Oct 2013 and as requested by RickBlaine took possession at 5:35 PM LOL! SERIOUSLY. I had to sign my name stating the time i took possession of her!

Retired
'91 Accord Wagon LX
4 cylinder
4 speed A/T
136,000 + miles
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post #11 of 12 Old 05-13-2014, 12:27 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by eblanco90 View Post
Thanks!! I really appriciate the advise. Oh and quick question. I noticed after everything today that my A/c took a turn for the worse (just not cold anymore) could any of my actions today kinda cause my ac to just stop blowing cold air? And I'll post tomorrow what the draw is.
Did you check your drive / accessory belt to make sure it's tight? Did you try replacing it? Since it takes over 3k RPMs to get the alternator moving, maybe there's major slippage and both AC and Alternator are on the same belt.
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post #12 of 12 Old 05-13-2014, 12:55 PM
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I agree with eugenet, sounds like belt slip if the light is going off over 3k. Your belt tensioner could be shot also. Always good to have a cheap voltmeter in your toolkit
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