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post #1 of 12 Old 10-11-2013, 04:10 AM Thread Starter
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parking brake indicator light always on.

I have an 07 honda accord with th parking break indicator light always on,weather the it is engaged or released.that was how I bought it.

I have changed the master cylinder, break pads,made some adjustments in the parking break itself, but to no avail.

Recently, a friend said he raised the issue with an auto part dealer and was told that it was an item in d break pedal that's making the light stay on. The problem is that this auto part seller has refused to disclose the name of that item because he doesn't want me to get it from somwhere else.

Please those anyone know what could be making the light stay permanently on? Or those any one have an idea about what this auto part dealer could be refering to in the break pedal?

I will appreciate your responses.

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post #2 of 12 Old 10-11-2013, 06:14 AM
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Sounds like a bad/stuck brake fluid sensor? Some info here brake master cylinder float?


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post #3 of 12 Old 10-11-2013, 07:29 AM
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Doubt it's the brake (not break) pedal switch, there are actually two switches at the top of the break pedal, one is the cruise control disengage (if you have cruise control in the car), the other switches on the brake light when you step on the brake pedal.

Not 100% sure for 7th Gen, but one burned out brake light bulb could cause then parking brake warning light to come on in some cars, so have someone sit in the car to press on the brake pedal while you are outside to see if brake lights on both sides come on.

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post #4 of 12 Old 10-11-2013, 08:38 AM
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Perhaps you failed to mention it, but did you test the parking brake switch? A simple continuity test tells if it failed. There should be no continuity with the lever down and the opposite when up. Similarly, you can easily check the master cylinder reservoir sender. There should be no continuity with fluid in the reservoir, just in case you got a new one with a bad level switch.

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post #5 of 12 Old 10-11-2013, 08:44 AM
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Parking break switch is really easy to check. Pull op on the plastic piece around your shifter, it's held in by just 4 metal clips, then pull up on the cup holder with the parking break at about a 45 degree angle. It's also held in by just metal clips.

The switch is right there and might be dirty or loose or could possibly need replacement.

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post #6 of 12 Old 10-11-2013, 05:45 PM
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So are you driving around with the beep all the time? If I have my parking brake engaged and move more than about 10mph, I get the seat belt beep going until I either stop or release the parking brake.

And as axipher said, the parking brake switch is below the cupholders and is probably the most simple switch - just a strip of metal that bends when the parking brake handle hits it and completes or interrupts a circuit.

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post #7 of 12 Old 10-12-2013, 02:35 AM Thread Starter
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Thank you all for your response. I really appreciate.
Please how will I know if this switch is faulty? That part has been opened and checked a couple of times, though I wouldn't know what they checked for when they opened it.
, it doesn't beep.it just remanins on weather the packing break is engaged or not.it only beeps if I don't put it down fully when I'm driving.
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post #8 of 12 Old 10-12-2013, 06:12 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dan_dollar View Post
Please how will I know if this switch is faulty?
Read my post above. But for the 1st step you should just disconnect the sender on the master cylinder. If the light goes out, then you've found the culprit. Since you put in a new master cylinder the sender should be good, but it's so easy to check to confirm that it's working properly. If the sender is ok, you should proceed on to the continuity test of the parking brake switch to confirm whether it's the problem. The service manual says to remove the console to get at it, but I'm sure that Axipher's tip will get you in there. Once you're in there it takes about a minute to test it with a simple $5- 10 tool. If you don't know what it is here's an example.



I just had the same problem with my wife's 03 about 2 weeks ago. It was the master cylinder sender in her case and I was able to troubleshoot it by simply disconnecting it! Unfortunately I checked the parking brake switch 1st to no avail.

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post #9 of 12 Old 10-12-2013, 06:54 AM
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break = make things not working

brake = the part that slows car down


2005 Satin Silver V6 Coupe 6 speed
TL shift knob, Hidden Hitch, Venture Shield clear protetive film,
GM Friction Modified Synchromesh transmission fluid,
2007 Acura TL-S front/rear sway bars,
Clutch slave cylinder restrictor valve delete.

Acura TL 5-spoke rims 245/45-17 Bridgestone Pole Position RE970
Honda steel rims 225/55-16 Michelin Primacy Alpin PA3


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post #10 of 12 Old 10-12-2013, 08:05 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Aviography View Post
break = make things not working

brake = the part that slows car down

....if I had a nickel for every time......
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post #11 of 12 Old 10-12-2013, 11:05 AM
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ypsibird

I read somewhere that the float in the master cylinder saturates with brake fluid and becomes heavy (won't float any more) causing the switch to read low brake fluid when the fluid is actually full.
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post #12 of 12 Old 10-12-2013, 12:01 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rosariolane View Post
ypsibird

I read somewhere that the float in the master cylinder saturates with brake fluid and becomes heavy (won't float any more) causing the switch to read low brake fluid when the fluid is actually full.
That's interesting. I've also read that the float just gets stuck. I think I recall someone saying they had luck tapping the bottom area of the master cylinder to unstick the float. Irregardless whether the fault is the sender or the float, just disconnecting it made the brake light go away on my wife's car. The sender and float are part of the master cylinder and can't be bought separately. I eyeballed mine and it didn't look like you can readily access the float from the fill cap. As I noted above, if you disconnect the sender and the light goes off you know where the problem is. I'm still deciding whether I want to replace the master cylinder just to fix the low level (brake) light. I might just leave the sender disconnected permanently.

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