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post #1 of 6 Old 01-10-2018, 07:06 PM Thread Starter
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First self install

Hi for the first time all!!

I have a few questions so I will attempt to be as concise as I can but I might be wrong (more than likely). Parts are at the end.

I recently got a 2013 Accord LX with an audio system that just sucks. I plan to do a staged upgrade of the audio system so that I donít break the bank all in one go. I initially plan to install a pair of Hertz energy speakers since I already own a pair. Eventually I may upgrade to Hi-Energy. Because the factory HU is not enough I plan to put in an Audio Control D4.800 to clean up the factory equalizer and push power to the speakers. I also picked this based on I can use it instead of LOC to bring signal from the factory HU since if I want to keep all of the factory functions i cannot replace the HU. I havenít settled on what mono block or sub yet but because im doing a staged upgrade I have time.

My first question is everything I have read and watched says that source audio is a large factor in good sounding system. Are they talking like Mp3 or other file format or are they meaning the volts that come the factory HU? I'm guessing the file format but thats why I am here, I donít like guessing.

Second, the factory speakers from the HU feed nothing but Coaxial speakers, does that mean that there "should" be a full range signal coming from them? I donít really have the equipment to test it, at least not until I buy that DSP since it has the RTA
Last, for now, the DSP has a crossover but the Hertz speakers come with one as well. I'm guessing the DSP would be better because it would be an "active" crossover vs the one with the speakers being passive. Is that a proper presumption? Audio Control D4.800, Hertz ESK 165.5, Hertz HSK 165

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post #2 of 6 Old 01-10-2018, 07:30 PM
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The factory LX hu does not output the full audio signal. It cuts bass to preserve the (super cheap and fragile) factory speakers. The only way to get a clean signal is to go with an aftermarket headunit or swap in the touchscreen premium sound headunit and bypass the factory amp. Aftermarket is the easier way to go. Thereís lots of info in this forum about going aftermarket and retaining the iMid functions by leaving the original headunit connected and hiding it inside the dash while using the aftermarket one for audio and Bluetooth.

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post #3 of 6 Old 01-11-2018, 10:01 PM
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First off, welcome to the forum!!

The staged install plan is a solid one. You've chosen some high quality equipment and it should provide you with many years of flawless performance. You did not indicate if you physically are doing the install or if you would be paying someone. Either one will work, but I've seen good equipment treated and installed very poorly in the past yielding sub par results.

Like Gearhead82 mentioned, the OEM H/U has a built in HP filter at around 40Hz to protect the OEM speakers. This may sound like a deal breaker but you will still get some bass out of the H/U (I've heard a few setups using the same OEM H/U with no real loss in audible sound). You are correct that the sound that you hear greatly depends on the material being played. Poorly converted MP3's will sound like garbage in any setup. I use an iPod and convert all of my files to lossless to minimize that loss during the conversion process. If you can't go lossless, anything around 320kbps will yield nearly perfect reproductions of the original.

The question about the crossover is a confusing one for sure. The amp will have an onboard crossover (considered active since you control the frequencies), and the speakers will have there own passive crossover. If you use the Hertz passive, you'll only need two amp channels for the ESK components since the passive crossover splits the signal into four outputs. If you do use the amp's onboard crossover you'll use all four channels to power the components only since two channels will power the tweeters and the other two amp channels will power the midrange speakers (and the Hertz passive crossover will stay in the box unused). At least for now, lets keep it simple and use the two amp channels and the Hertz passive crossover to driver the components. The other two channels of the amp will power the coaxes in the rear deck.

If any of this seems confusing feel free to ask more questions on here or PM directly. Good luck with your install!


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post #4 of 6 Old 01-12-2018, 08:00 AM Thread Starter
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So first off I am doing a self install, Id rather do it myself and get what i want rather than relying on an install shop again. The last setup I had was great but they butchered the wire harnessing and everything so when i went to sell the car i couldn't remove the equipment and install the factory stuff without a major rework, which i didn't have time for. Which is sad because that was a complete Hi-energy setup.

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Originally Posted by Lashlee View Post
Like Gearhead82 mentioned, the OEM H/U has a built in HP filter at around 40Hz to protect the OEM speakers. This may sound like a deal breaker but you will still get some bass out of the H/U (I've heard a few setups using the same OEM H/U with no real loss in audible sound). You are correct that the sound that you hear greatly depends on the material being played. Poorly converted MP3's will sound like garbage in any setup. I use an iPod and convert all of my files to lossless to minimize that loss during the conversion process. If you can't go lossless, anything around 320kbps will yield nearly perfect reproductions of the original.
So from digging around online seems i found the same result as you with a HPF coming in around 40-60hz, depending on what im reading. My curious concern is the DSP's function for accubass, which is an audiocontrol software built in. From what I can tell its a bass restoration built into the EQ. I wish i could link videos for reference but because i dont have enough posts yet I cant. There is a detailed video published by audio control that goes into the software of the d 4.800 as well as the car audio fabrication channel on youtube. Same guy does the video and they are only slightly different. I know nothing can replace a truly native freq from the head unit but I would be curious to know your thoughts as if this would fix the majority of the HPF coming from the HU.

As for install, I am going to go four channel to the components and the use the pre-amp outs eventually to power a mono and sub. Have not decided on what i want to do for that yet.
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post #5 of 6 Old 01-12-2018, 09:04 AM
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Source audio means just that, the medium that you're playing whether MP3, radio, CD and it's all different. One recording will EQ bass, another will compress midrange etc. etc. But that's minor, our biggest problem in Accords is the HU. Others may disagree but IMO you're unlikely to find a decent HU on any $20-$30,000 vehicle.

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post #6 of 6 Old 01-15-2018, 10:56 PM
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Welcome!

I have spent a lot of time and effort trying to get the base model head unit (non touchscreen) to sound good. However, good is relative and others have found happiness with some easier efforts. I modified it internally, I added a second HU, and I've swapped for a factory touch screen. I don't recommend any of those options for most people.

This is what the 2014 base model headunit has for a signal output to the front:


The rear signals are much lower in level. If you snag the front speaker outputs and run them through a DSP then amplify some aftermarket speakers you can sound decent. The bass roll-off in that graph starts at 70Hz and has a slope of 12dB/oct. This was measured directly from the HU outputs.

When had the Alpine PXA-H800 attempt to flatten the signal, it basically turned everything above the roll-off down since you can't boost enough of the lows. It did sound much flatter and just required a higher gain setting on the amp.

Your plan is fine.

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