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post #1 of 11 Old 11-27-2017, 12:06 PM Thread Starter
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Speakers Pop At Turn On

I recently upgraded my sound system in my '16 Accord Touring.

I am using a harness to get the input signal for my amp. I have my remote turn-on from an add-a circuit on the ACC fuse.

New components:
AMP - Alpine PDX-V9
Speakers - ID XS65
- 2x8" Alpine Type-R Woofers

When I turn on the car I hear a loud crack/pop on the speakers. Sometimes I do not hear it as loud but it is noticeable. Any idea what could be causing this? Is this related to a grounding issue? I tied my ground to a bolt in the trunk. I can take a pic of the ground later on today.


Last edited by namegoeshere; 11-27-2017 at 02:18 PM.
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post #2 of 11 Old 11-27-2017, 03:02 PM
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You need to disable the ANC. Lots and lots of threads about that if you search this forum.

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post #3 of 11 Old 11-27-2017, 03:46 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Gearhead82 View Post
You need to disable the ANC. Lots and lots of threads about that if you search this forum.


That was the first thing I did before installing any new equipment. I unplugged the module.

I have searched a bit and some out a turn on delay so that the amp can turn on a couple of seconds after and that seems to help the pop noise during power up. Iíll check my wiring again to make sure everything is secure but I may get a timer to possibly help.
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post #4 of 11 Old 11-28-2017, 08:27 AM
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Like you've found, the amp is turning on with the car and the H/U is coming on after the amp is powered up. Finding a timer may be difficuly, my PG DD5 has a built in timer, but it's not impossible to work around.


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post #5 of 11 Old 11-28-2017, 08:56 PM
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A more reliable solution is to use a line output converter with an auto turn-on circuit to generate a turn-on signal. David Navone has a LOC with this feature that is good quality and i've used it in these cars without issues.

What trim level do you have?

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post #6 of 11 Old 11-29-2017, 06:47 AM
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I'm not familiar with the PDX-V9. Does it have a signal sensing turn-on option? That's how I run my JL amp. It turns on when it senses a signal on the RCAs.

2013 Accord EX-L V6 Coupe (Crystal Black Pearl)
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post #7 of 11 Old 11-29-2017, 08:56 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by keep_hope_alive View Post
A more reliable solution is to use a line output converter with an auto turn-on circuit to generate a turn-on signal. David Navone has a LOC with this feature that is good quality and i've used it in these cars without issues.

What trim level do you have?
I have a Touring model. I am using the mercman harness which is just grabbing the signal that would go before the amp.

Quote:
Originally Posted by ominae View Post
I'm not familiar with the PDX-V9. Does it have a signal sensing turn-on option? That's how I run my JL amp. It turns on when it senses a signal on the RCAs.
I think that may be what is going on. I noticed that one of my channels got crossed in my RCAs. One of my channels from the subwoofer output was going into my front left channel in my amp. I corrected this and now I do not hear a pop anymore. Possibly the sub signal gets sent before the FR/FL signals get sent and that was causing the amp to wake up? I do not see an option on RCA signal sensing.
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post #8 of 11 Old 12-03-2017, 08:03 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by keep_hope_alive View Post
A more reliable solution is to use a line output converter with an auto turn-on circuit to generate a turn-on signal. David Navone has a LOC with this feature that is good quality and i've used it in these cars without issues.

What trim level do you have?
KHA, I'm trying to figure out which wire do I tap, from the attached diagram you created, if I need to connect the remote turn-on blue wire that comes with line output converter such as the NVX 160 watt 4-Channel Line Output Converter LOC [XFLOC4] (link below).
Is it PIN #22 OR 23 from that main audio harness?
Some powered sub-woofers without signal sensing turn-on also come with a remote input connection, in addition to the power and ground connections, and I'm not sure where do I tap that from.


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post #9 of 11 Old 12-03-2017, 08:11 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Maxdom View Post
KHA, I'm trying to figure out which wire do I tap, from the attached diagram you created, if I need to connect the remote turn-on blue wire that comes with line output converter such as the NVX 160 watt 4-Channel Line Output Converter LOC [XFLOC4] (link below).
Is it PIN #22 OR 23 from that main audio harness?
Some powered sub-woofers without signal sensing turn-on also come with a remote input connection, in addition to the power and ground connections, and I'm not sure where do I tap that from.
.
You don't connect the blue turn-on wire at the LOC to the car, you connect it to the remote connection at the amp. The LOC can get power from the factory radio ignition wire, purple in the image above.

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post #10 of 11 Old 12-04-2017, 04:01 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by keep_hope_alive View Post
You don't connect the blue turn-on wire at the LOC to the car, you connect it to the remote connection at the amp. The LOC can get power from the factory radio ignition wire, purple in the image above.

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Thank you.
I was a bit confused because some powered sub-woofers come with a high level input harness, along with a remote turn-on wire connection input, to be connected without the use of a LOC. In those cases I wouldn't know where to connect that blue wire from, or if it just goes unused.
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post #11 of 11 Old 12-06-2017, 10:20 PM
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Quote:
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Thank you.
I was a bit confused because some powered sub-woofers come with a high level input harness, along with a remote turn-on wire connection input, to be connected without the use of a LOC. In those cases I wouldn't know where to connect that blue wire from, or if it just goes unused.
Some amplifiers have high level inputs AND auto turn-on features. Some just have high level inputs and require a remote turn on input. Usually, the nicer models have auto turn-on because most powered subwoofers are for a factory system add-on.

If auto turn-on isn't offered by the amp, you can ignore the high level inputs and use a good LOC with auto turn-on remote output, then RCA from LOC to amp. Anything to get away from using an ignition wire for an amp turn-on.

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