My 2017 Touring Stereo Upgrade - Drive Accord Honda Forums | radio-pro.ru
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post #1 of 51 Old 03-20-2017, 05:39 AM Thread Starter
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My 2017 Touring Stereo Upgrade

AudioControl LC7i
Audio Control ACR1 Remote Bass Control
Alpine PDX-V9
JL Audio 10W3v3-4
JL Audio C2-650 - Front Componets
JL Audio C2-650X - Rears
Sealed .69 Box

I am having an installer do this for me. I am planning to deaden the front doors and the rear deck. I know the front and rear speakers are not great but this is a start and hopefully will be much better than stock. I have a few questions about the install.

1. I couldn't find a consensus on how to deactivate ANC, but it sound like clipping the font mic wire, and unplugging the rear mic was the best solution. Is that right?

2. Is going post amp the best way to go with the pieces I have?

3. Has anyone here installed the ACR1? Where did you install yours? Show pics if possible. I thought about flush mounting it to the right of the shift handle, any thoughts on that?

Any other feedback would be appreciated.

Thanks!

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post #2 of 51 Old 03-20-2017, 06:29 AM
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Unless something has changed, the best bet is simply unplugging the ANC module.


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post #3 of 51 Old 03-20-2017, 10:04 AM
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You can simply wire some RCA tips onto the signal wiring that goes from OEM H/U to the OEM amp. The signal is clean an unfiltered and give you a much better result than the LC7i, and save you the money to boot. Many of us with the OEM Premium systems use this with excellent results.


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post #4 of 51 Old 03-21-2017, 04:10 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jrock645 View Post
Unless something has changed, the best bet is simply unplugging the ANC module.
Ok I found the steps for that in another thread. Thanks!

Quote:
Originally Posted by Lashlee View Post
You can simply wire some RCA tips onto the signal wiring that goes from OEM H/U to the OEM amp. The signal is clean an unfiltered and give you a much better result than the LC7i, and save you the money to boot. Many of us with the OEM Premium systems use this with excellent results.
Can you explain why that is? I already ordered the Lc7i and the remote for it. I can sell it and pick up the control knob for the PDX-9. So not a huge deal.

Last edited by namegoeshere; 04-06-2017 at 04:01 PM. Reason: merge
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post #5 of 51 Old 03-22-2017, 07:51 AM
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Basically you will intercept the signal wiring that goes between the OEM H/U and the OEM amp that is mounted up and to the right of the glove box. The signal that Honda uses is called differential balanced, which basically an RCA without the physical connections with the addition of an extra ground wire. You (or the installer) can simply cut or tap onto the OEM positive and negative signal wires for each of the five channels to get the signal you need. It's much more complicated to type it out then to actually complete it. There are more than a few posts that have the colors denoted to tap onto for signals. The only other thing that you'll need is to tap onto the accessory lead from the key that will give you a turn on signal for the amp.


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Last edited by namegoeshere; 03-22-2017 at 07:57 AM. Reason: rules
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post #6 of 51 Old 03-22-2017, 11:24 AM Thread Starter
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Thanks for that info. So the output, post factory amp, has been filtered and not ideal. And That's why it would be better to tap the output pre factory amp and go to my new amp from there?
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post #7 of 51 Old 03-22-2017, 12:14 PM
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Yea the factory amp does all kinds of weird stuff. The signal from it is goofy. But the signal from the HU is good to go. Yank out the old amp and install a new amp and it sounds great. You just need a amp that uses differential balanced inputs.

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post #8 of 51 Old 03-22-2017, 06:09 PM
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See if this helps. I think most of what you're looking for is here, ask if you need any info.

Audio Upgrade with JL Audio Components

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post #9 of 51 Old 03-22-2017, 06:35 PM Thread Starter
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See if this helps. I think most of what you're looking for is here, ask if you need any info.

Audio Upgrade with JL Audio Components
Thanks for all that. I just want to give my installer all the info I can to make it as easy as possible.

Sounds like you did not disconnect the ANC from the head unit since you bypassed the stock amp, is that right? It's not a big deal but one less thing to do.

It also sounds like you retained all of the factory functionality with BT, steering wheel controls, and hands free commands?

Seems pretty straight forward otherwise. So how happy are you with your install?

Last edited by xantom; 03-22-2017 at 06:35 PM. Reason: added word
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post #10 of 51 Old 03-23-2017, 08:57 AM
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Thanks for that info. So the output, post factory amp, has been filtered and not ideal. And That's why it would be better to tap the output pre factory amp and go to my new amp from there?
100% correct. There are five signals sent from the OEM H/U to the OEM amp so you can tap all of them and keep front/rear fade, balance as well as the sub control from the OEM H/U. When I checked the signal with an oscilloscope it verified it to be full range, and didn't clip even at full volume, peaking at 3.0v, which is as good as most premium aftermarket H/U's.


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post #11 of 51 Old 03-23-2017, 06:41 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by xantom View Post
Thanks for all that. I just want to give my installer all the info I can to make it as easy as possible.

Sounds like you did not disconnect the ANC from the head unit since you bypassed the stock amp, is that right? It's not a big deal but one less thing to do.

It also sounds like you retained all of the factory functionality with BT, steering wheel controls, and hands free commands?

Seems pretty straight forward otherwise. So how happy are you with your install?

Disconnecting the factory harness and amp effectively disconnects ANC. I eventually unplugged it just to verify and it made no difference.

All factory functionality was retained including voice commands. It all comes from the head unit so nothing is lost.

I did the sound-proofing prior to any of the audio components and proceeded with building the harness and then running all the wiring, connecting in the crossovers. Speaker replacement next and lastly connecting the amp.

It's a night and day difference - fuller sound throughout. I'm hearing things I never noticed prior. The only item retained was the factory sub which was obviously enhanced by the new amp. Even the highly compressed satellite sounds good.

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post #12 of 51 Old 03-24-2017, 04:21 AM Thread Starter
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I have 3 inputs to my amp. I stole this wire diagram from another post, hope this is the correct diagram. If it is would I combine 1 channels + and - to one RCA? Sorry if this is sounds dumb but I have never done it before. My installer would know, but I am curious. Thanks so much for all your help!

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post #13 of 51 Old 03-24-2017, 04:54 PM
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Quote:
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AudioControl LC7i
Audio Control ACR1 Remote Bass Control
Alpine PDX-V9
JL Audio 10W3v3-4
JL Audio C2-650 - Front Componets
JL Audio C2-650X - Rears
Sealed .69 Box
I almost have the same setup
JL Audio C2-650 - Front Componets
JL Audio C2-650X - Rears

But I'm going with these for my Sub & Amp
JL Audio CP110LG-TW1-2
JL Audio RD900/5

Those speakers kick!! And once I get them amped in a few weeks they'll shine even more!
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post #14 of 51 Old 03-24-2017, 07:51 PM
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Originally Posted by xantom View Post
I have 3 inputs to my amp. I stole this wire diagram from another post, hope this is the correct diagram. If it is would I combine 1 channels + and - to one RCA? Sorry if this is sounds dumb but I have never done it before. My installer would know, but I am curious. Thanks so much for all your help!
It is as that's the one I created and posted. It appears you have a total of 6 inputs if that's the amp you are using - 2-front, 2-rear, 2-sub. There's a left and right for each.

Yes, you will use + and - for each channel along with shield to create each cable. The shield only goes to the connector end not the RCA end. You will have a total of five RCA connectors/wires coming from the head unit output. 2-front, 2-rear and sub-woofer. You can use a short Y-harness for the sub RCA to combine both inputs going to the amp.

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post #15 of 51 Old 03-25-2017, 07:04 AM
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Do not use the shield, you will have noise if you have it connected. Just use the positive and negative of each pair.



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