Inside the 2014 Sport factory head unit - disassembly - Drive Accord Honda Forums | radio-pro.ru
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post #1 of 212 Old 02-28-2015, 03:48 PM Thread Starter
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Inside the 2014 Sport factory head unit - disassembly

finally decided to take the stock head unit apart. I am trying to decide how i want it to pair with the new Alpine PXA-H800. Ideally, i'll find a way around the factory DSP entirely. getting inside was the first step. fairly easy, no ribbon cables, just plugs.

remove all of the attachments, vents, mounts. remove the main unit from the face.



a plug connects them (like a faceplate)


remove the heat sink to remove the top cover




remove the CD mechanism


note the Parrot Bluetooth module inside the head unit




remove the inner circuit board


remove the final cover and reveal the bottom circuit board




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post #2 of 212 Old 02-28-2015, 04:43 PM
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Possibly Bypass HU Amp & EQ?

Thanks for digging into the HU. Hopefully, there's a way to bypass the factory amp and EQ, so aftermarket equipment could be connected to the factory preamp.

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post #3 of 212 Old 02-28-2015, 06:29 PM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by bblueser View Post
Thanks for digging into the HU. Hopefully, there's a way to bypass the factory amp and EQ, so aftermarket equipment could be connected to the factory preamp.
that is my goal
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post #4 of 212 Old 02-28-2015, 08:08 PM
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That is exactly what I needed to see. Now I know for sure that it is 100% possible to install an aftermarket stereo and keep all the features. And be able to easily relocate the front display to keep access to all the functions. Thanks!


Sent from

-Mike
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post #5 of 212 Old 02-28-2015, 08:15 PM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by zerog270 View Post
That is exactly what I needed to see. Now I know for sure that it is 100% possible to install an aftermarket stereo and keep all the features. And be able to easily relocate the front display to keep access to all the functions. Thanks!


Sent from
yep. easy to disassemble but i was surprised to see no ribbon cables but instead connectors.

the front control panel can be separated from the plastic housing and located elsewhere. connectors and cabling can tie the control panel back to the main panel.

there are two circuit boards. i believe the bottom circuit board is camera input and monitor output. i need to verify but the harnesses match the wiring diagrams.

I can take some photos with the plastic cover removed from the controller panel if you'd like. only a few more screws to peek inside.
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post #6 of 212 Old 02-28-2015, 08:24 PM
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How difficult would it be to put RCA pre outs?
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post #7 of 212 Old 03-01-2015, 07:28 AM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by jb4674 View Post
How difficult would it be to put RCA pre outs?
that's what i'm looking into. the amplifier chip is easily seen and snagging the low level signal before the amplifier chip would allow for RCA outputs (possibly a small preamp circuit in there). but i expect the factory DSP to be before the amplifier chip. also, many amplifier IC's have volume control built-in to them, so the signal would be independent of volume. If so, snagging the signal at the amplifier won't work.

my fear is that one microprocessor does everything. next i need to dig into the board layout and follow traces. a schematic would be nice but my first attempt with Honda tech support was pointless. Pioneer may be the only ones with access to the board schematic.

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post #8 of 212 Old 03-01-2015, 09:51 AM Thread Starter
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Looking more closely at the amplifier IC and preamp section, i think we can snag a decent RCA output from the two dual opamps.







but the opamps inside are pretty poor (typical Pioneer). replacing them makes more sense. I love the Analog Devices OP275, very high slew rate and very low distortion.

replace this:


with this:




i'm not 100% on the amplifier IC because the markings are behind the metal bracket and i don't feel like cutting that out. but this is most likely the IC (or a equivalent model). the ground pins are in the right spot.






also, there is a remote turn-on output in the harness that corresponds to Pin 25 on the amplifier IC.


closeup of the Bluetooth module

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post #9 of 212 Old 03-01-2015, 10:07 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by zerog270 View Post
That is exactly what I needed to see. Now I know for sure that it is 100% possible to install an aftermarket stereo and keep all the features. And be able to easily relocate the front display to keep access to all the functions. Thanks!


Sent from
the board has the connector pins somewhat labeled - so you can see what jumps between boards.
lower display board:




upper CD mechanism



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post #10 of 212 Old 03-01-2015, 12:16 PM
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KHA-

We're not worthy for the hard work you're putting in on this. HUGE, HUGE thanks to you for the effort. Hopefully there's a salvageable signal coming out of those OPAMPs. Is it your thoughts that the two OP's are one for front and one for rear? Maybe it would only be necessary to replace one of the OP's and then tap the two channel signal there to go for outboard amplification. Here's hoping that the DSP resides in the IC and not the OPAMP's (or further upstream). How soon before we can see some measurements?

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post #11 of 212 Old 03-01-2015, 12:43 PM
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The output IC PA2030 is likely a relabeled TDA7850. The IC has a voltage gain of about 25dB so unless you find a pad between the driver op amps and the output IC you will need to build some gain to have a usable output. Lastly, I think you will find that the DSP controls all the tone functions as well as volume. If you can access it, possible via SPI you might be able to reprogram it. Did you take any frequency response Vs Volume setting measurements of the HU before starting?

Very cool project, happy modding.

Jeff
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post #12 of 212 Old 03-01-2015, 02:58 PM
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- so your goal is to run the factory HU as is with pre outs to the Alpine then on to amps etc, or to run another head unit?
- why the Alpine DSP?
- wonder how the guts of the premium unit compare.
- looking ahead it would be ideal if you solved this then offered a service a core charge on the modded unit.
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post #13 of 212 Old 03-01-2015, 03:08 PM Thread Starter
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KHA-

We're not worthy for the hard work you're putting in on this. HUGE, HUGE thanks to you for the effort. Hopefully there's a salvageable signal coming out of those OPAMPs. Is it your thoughts that the two OP's are one for front and one for rear? Maybe it would only be necessary to replace one of the OP's and then tap the two channel signal there to go for outboard amplification. Here's hoping that the DSP resides in the IC and not the OPAMP's (or further upstream). How soon before we can see some measurements?
this has been on my to-do list. i don't want to reuse the opamps. i want to use better opamps instead. i want to snag the signal before the JRC op amps, but i'll need to build my own pre-amp circuit. but i'd like to test the idea of just adding RCA outputs for the average person. so i'll look into that as well.

the main challenge is that i cannot test the board while everything is accessibled. normally, you have ribbon cables connecting everything and you can move stuff out of the way. this head unit has hard connectors. that means i need to tap locations, run wiring out of the unit, then reassemble before testing. it's more tedious.

Quote:
Originally Posted by dfarr67 View Post
- so your goal is to run the factory HU as is with pre outs to the Alpine then on to amps etc, or to run another head unit?
- why the Alpine DSP?
- wonder how the guts of the premium unit compare.
- looking ahead it would be ideal if you solved this then offered a service a core charge on the modded unit.
i will have the unit feeding the AUX input to my Alpine system. that way i have an SQ source in my second head unit but my daily usage would be the factory head unit.

the premium unit has 3V outputs that negate the need to do this. honestly, putting the premium system in may be easier.

we'll see what this entails. doing this with a core swap-out is a neat idea. but no doubt your head unit warranty is void.

i need to talk to Pioneer to sort out a few questions. i'd really like to have a schematic since i don't know the cap values.

Quote:
Originally Posted by mercman View Post
The output IC PA2030 is likely a relabeled TDA7850. The IC has a voltage gain of about 25dB so unless you find a pad between the driver op amps and the output IC you will need to build some gain to have a usable output. Lastly, I think you will find that the DSP controls all the tone functions as well as volume. If you can access it, possible via SPI you might be able to reprogram it. Did you take any frequency response Vs Volume setting measurements of the HU before starting?

Very cool project, happy modding.

Jeff
i plan on building my own preamp using the Analog Device OP275. maybe i'll just swap out the opamps. there are several places between the preamp and amplifier IC that we can snag an output. but i need to look more closely at the components between the op amps and amplifier input before i pick a tap location.

yes, i have frequency response measurements, and it appeared to be independent of volume. i did both high volume through a loc and very low volume direct input to my external sound card. nearly the same response.

i agree, after looking at the amplifier IC expect volume control to be through the DSP. i'll add some wires to the op amp output and see what response we get.

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post #14 of 212 Old 03-01-2015, 04:30 PM
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Cross Polinating

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post #15 of 212 Old 03-01-2015, 05:22 PM
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Cross Polinating

Doesn't apply. That build is based on the premium deck with nav. That unit does output a full spectrum flat signal. LX, Sport, and EX trims have the stereo that has a 50hz filter.


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