I see. So I might be ok with just doing a speaker upgrade now and then doing the small amp upgrade down the road. I still dont know what speakers I want to use. Did you do your speaker upgrade yet?
Yes. The results were not good.
I installed my Components and its not good
New question: Will going from the stock 160 watt HU to a powerpack thats 180 watt make much of a difference?
I would take the 160watt rating of our systems with a grain of salt. It is most likely 160peak watts and even then I am sure that it is at 1khz with 10% THD or something along those lines. The Alpine is rated at 45watts continuous. So that means all day long it is able to put out 45watts per channel at only 1% THD. Thats not fantastic, but its not bad for what your looking to accomplish.
The power pack is a good amp, but you may want to look at the Clarion XC1410. Its 50Wx4 RMS but with only .1% THD. So its playing a lot cleaner at 50W and its $20 cheaper than the Power Pack.
There a member who installed the power pack to their stock HU on here. Im not sure how active he is but maybe you want to see if he is happy with it.
Glossary: (Stolen from Crutchfield.com)
THD = Total Harmonic Distortion :The amount of change in harmonic content of the signal as it is amplified. A lower figure indicates less change and a more accurate amp. THD below 0.10% is inaudible.
RMS Power: The amount of continuous power, measured in watts, that an amplifier produces is called RMS power. The higher the RMS figure, the louder and cleaner your music sounds.
Peak Power: Stereo manufacturers often display peak power ratings on the face of their products. The peak power rating tells you the maximum wattage an amplifier can deliver as a brief burst during a musical peak, like a dramatic drum accent. The RMS figure is more significant.