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post #16 of 20 Old 03-29-2017, 01:04 PM Thread Starter
6th Gear

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Quote:
Originally Posted by desertrat View Post
Your TPMS would not need to be reset unless it was set wrong when you took the car in. The 1 lb difference front/rear recommended by Honda is irrelevant. Judging from your past experience I would recommend checking your own tire pressures then reset the TPMS yourself if needed.

For your own peace of mind and safety I suggest finding another place to have your car serviced.
You should reset the TPMS every time you change air pressure or a tire is moved to a new corner of the car. I had 3 at 38PSI and one at 37, the TPMS light came on about 100 miles after the service. I hit the button and it never came back, but I reset my tire pressure last night in my garage on all 4 wheels. I'll continue to go to the same dealer for the oil changes since they charge $18.95 for semi-synth and a filter, and I just walk to the grocery store while I wait.

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Originally Posted by qman View Post
You guys waste time and money at the stealership? These are definitely first world problems.

I changed out my front struts in less time than it would take me to drive to the stealer.
Everything else I do myself (trans fluid, rotors and pads, lights, filters, tire patching), but it costs more to buy the oil and filter than they charge to do the whole job.

KW2004Accord likes this.

Current vehicle:
2014 Honda Accord LX 6MT 103K
easy mods and changes:
*55W HID lowbeam 5000K (Innovited upgrade kit)
*LasFit 9005 HB3 highbeam / DRL 6500k
*Interior trunk handle
*Trunk cargo net
*All weather floor mats from College Hills Honda
*Gutter Guards behind lower grille

Previous vehicles:
2001 Chevy Prizm 3AT (given away, it was a terrible car...)
1995 Honda Accord DX 5MT (wrecked at 240K)
1989 Honda Civic LX 4AT (wrecked at 180K)
1988 GMC Sierra 1500 5MT (sold at 80K)
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post #17 of 20 Old 03-29-2017, 02:09 PM
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Originally Posted by easymike View Post
Everything else I do myself (trans fluid, rotors and pads, lights, filters, tire patching), but it costs more to buy the oil and filter than they charge to do the whole job.
How on earth is this possible? What do they charge for the change? We did have a Meineke in the neighborhood that was doing $10 oil changes for a while. Turned out they'd tear your CV boots in order to drum up business. I have a hard time believing a dealer is doing cheap oil changes.

It's the time that kills me. I do an oil change in 10-15 minutes. The drive to anywhere is that. Then add on the drive back and the time to wait. If you don't wait there's the time to get another ride to wherever and then back.


2003 Accord EX I4 AT (mine), K&N drop in (surprised), JL Audio TR690Txi 6X9 in the rear
2004 Accord EX I4 MT (wife's), totally bone stock except for all the crap that fills every cubic inch that is not the driver seat.
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post #18 of 20 Old 03-29-2017, 03:20 PM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by qman View Post
How on earth is this possible? What do they charge for the change? We did have a Meineke in the neighborhood that was doing $10 oil changes for a while. Turned out they'd tear your CV boots in order to drum up business. I have a hard time believing a dealer is doing cheap oil changes.

It's the time that kills me. I do an oil change in 10-15 minutes. The drive to anywhere is that. Then add on the drive back and the time to wait. If you don't wait there's the time to get another ride to wherever and then back.
It's $18.95, and I live about 1.5 miles away. My usual grocery store is across the street and there's a Dunkin Donuts next door. Since I schedule my appointments for Saturday mornings at 7:30, I walk to Dunkin, then the store, then my car is ready

Current vehicle:
2014 Honda Accord LX 6MT 103K
easy mods and changes:
*55W HID lowbeam 5000K (Innovited upgrade kit)
*LasFit 9005 HB3 highbeam / DRL 6500k
*Interior trunk handle
*Trunk cargo net
*All weather floor mats from College Hills Honda
*Gutter Guards behind lower grille

Previous vehicles:
2001 Chevy Prizm 3AT (given away, it was a terrible car...)
1995 Honda Accord DX 5MT (wrecked at 240K)
1989 Honda Civic LX 4AT (wrecked at 180K)
1988 GMC Sierra 1500 5MT (sold at 80K)
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post #19 of 20 Old 03-29-2017, 04:29 PM
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I gave one of my local Honda dealers a test. I even told the service writer that it was a test. That if they did this right I would be back. If not, they would never see me again.

I scheduled an appointment to do the B pillar wind noise TSB fix. Needed to order parts and would call when they were in. I waited. 3 months later I called back. Never ordered them but would now. Brought the car in the following week. When done I asked the service writer to explain what repair procedure they had accomplished. He didn't know and had to go ask the tech. And then he came back and said they had replaced the garnish on the passenger side. Only. Not the driver's side. And then looking closer at the TSB, they didn't do anything resembling the procedure outlined in the TSB.

Long story short, this simply confirmed my belief that if I want it done correctly, I need to do it myself.

But I do have a trusted indy shop where I can speak to the actual guy that does the maintenance. I can't stand the dealership arrangement where you can only talk to the service writer and not the guy that does the work.

No more dealership service for me. Ever.
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'15 MSM Accord Sport 6MT

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post #20 of 20 Old 03-29-2017, 05:59 PM
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Having worked at an auto shop, I can give you some explanations on how some of these things go down. I'll also let you know that I was a very hard working and HONEST worker who didn't recommend stuff that wasn't needed. I quickly built up a reputation of someone who could be trusted, we had two technicians there, both of them trusted me. Both of them also didn't exactly trust some of the other people...

The thing is that the quality of your service depends on the INDIVIDUAL who works on your car. I worked at Goodyear, my shop had generally honest people. I was a very high quality worker at Goodyear. However, just because another shop shares the same name, you aren't guaranteed quality work. Would I trust a different Goodyear to work on my car? Probably not.

That being said, there are generally two types of cars that come into shops:
1. New cars that might need minor things or nothing with owners who are willing to buy things.
2. Old cars that need work but the owners completely neglect maintenance and don't buy anything.

Quote:
Originally Posted by easymike View Post
So I've been using the same dealer where I purchased my car, Honda of Watertown in CT. I just had a B1 service today and, while satisfied, I have some complaints and observations.

I left a note on the dash specifying my needs and situation. My tires need to be replaced, left rear leaks 5-6 pounds per month. I replaced transmission fluid 2 months ago. Please don't top off washer fluid. In addition to my note, I told the desk clerk who was handling my appointment
I would suggest you tape the note to the steering wheel, or give the note to the clerk. My shop used tickets which had any special instructions or notes indicated on them. It is possible that their ticket had no indication AND the tech didn't see the note. The tech not checking your tire pressure is pure laziness on their part, I checked the tire pressure of pretty much every car I worked on. Some of the guys that I worked with would only check it if they were visibly low, if it was indicated on the ticket, or if the TPMS light was on.

Quote:
Originally Posted by RickBlaine View Post
Mike, the leaky tire could be a leaky valve stem seal, or perhaps the bead on the tire. A spray bottle of soapy water sprayed on the valve stem seal and the rim where it meets the tire will reveal the culprit.

One of my tires developed a slow leak- I found it was the valve stem seal by using this method. Tires were fine.

I could eat off of your battery terminals....
Most often there is a puncture in the tread, sometimes in the sidewall. Leaking valve stems are EXTREMELY rare. When checking the stem, make sure to spray the soapy water around the rubber AND inside the valve area.

Battery terminals are made of lead, you don't want to eat off of them.

Quote:
Originally Posted by easymike View Post
Fortunately, I'm willing to do the work myself to $ave, so I'm not at a high risk of them botching one of those jobs. HOWEVER, there will come a task that I need help, and on that day I may bring my business elsewhere. I will continue going for oil changes because their rate for Hondas is $18.95 for full synthetic + filter.
Understandable.

Quote:
Originally Posted by easymike View Post
1- As far as I can tell, for the MT it is not possible to check trans fluid quality without draining it, so they at least can't hit me with that nonsense, but my fuel injection system notice sounds like one of their "60,000 mile service" reminders along with my transmission fluid recommendation. There is no mention of injectors in the OM, plus I know that system is functioning properly by operating under the assumption that great gas mileage and/or a quick throttle (for a 4cyl) indicate proper function.
I believe you can check the level, I think there is a check bolt that upon removing will drip a small amount of oil if it is at the correct level. No oil coming out means there is not enough, a steady stream indicates too much oil. The problem is that in order to check the level, they would have to spend an extra 10 minutes or so, and risk breaking stuff. The real problem is that as workers, we are given a sheet and told to fill out everything about the condition of the car, even if it has nothing to do with the service being performed. We are also expected to work very quickly. The service providers get nervous when customers get antsy and walk around. This promotes workers just checking off everything as okay, or a commonly needed item as not okay. Don't trust the sheet unless you request an actual inspection of specific areas. If something is indicated as needing replacement, make sure to ask them to SHOW YOU.

Sounds like they didn't read your note regarding the fluid condition. As far as injectors, they have no way of knowing that you use injector cleaner unless you tell them. Injector services are easy money for shops, they sound reasonable enough for the average person and they don't cost all that much either, so they are easy to sell.


Quote:
Originally Posted by easymike View Post
Just had another oil change with tire rotation (included with my tire purchase). I have 3 slightly damaged rims, so I made a note of where they had been on the car. The dealer rotated my tires front to back without crossing any from side to side, I have non-directional tires. They also did not reset the TPMS, which I would assume to be standard by now. Otherwise, they did a good job of reading my note that said not to touch anything else on the car. It annoys me when they add the regular blue washer fluid to my full reservoir of orange or green Rain-X.
At my shop I was told to rotate front to back, not the X pattern, so that is what I did. I usually only reset TPMS if the car got new tires or if I knew it was a car that used the wheel speed sensors seeing different rpms to detect tire pressure.

Quote:
Originally Posted by easymike View Post
You should reset the TPMS every time you change air pressure or a tire is moved to a new corner of the car. I had 3 at 38PSI and one at 37, the TPMS light came on about 100 miles after the service. I hit the button and it never came back, but I reset my tire pressure last night in my garage on all 4 wheels. I'll continue to go to the same dealer for the oil changes since they charge $18.95 for semi-synth and a filter, and I just walk to the grocery store while I wait.
TPMS should only be reset if it was set to an incorrect tire pressure or if the tires were rotated/replaced, you don't need to reset it every time you change pressures.


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Ah so you do have a drinking problem. You do not drink enough.
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When I was little girl in Russia...

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You high?
2006 Honda Accord EX 6-6 Sedan Tafetta White 152K miles. DIY coroplast undertray, hybrid rear diffuser, Odyssey intake spacer milled down to 1.3", Engine block heater, Power steering delete, Acura RSX rims
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