Random "tale from the stealership" experience for your enjoyment. - Drive Accord Honda Forums | radio-pro.ru
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post #1 of 11 Old 12-05-2017, 04:50 PM Thread Starter
Car so nice, bought twice

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Random "tale from the stealership" experience for your enjoyment.

Coworkers Honda Odyssey which is basically the same powertrain as our Accords. Thing starts juddering, plug in OBDII and it reports code P3400. Eh whatever just tow it to the dealership and let them handle it. White collar guy who doesn't own a set of tools.

"Well it's $130 for the diagnostic fee but that is credited towards labor and parts".

Ok cool, whatever, that's fine.

I do about 5 minutes of googling and checking the service manual and find that the code P3400 is usually fixed by replacing a rear oil pressure switch. Switch costs $30 online, $40 MSRP, and it looks like a 15 minute job since the switch is *right there* on top of the back of the engine.

I tell coworker all this but he's fine with just eating $130 to have the dealership do it and not inconvenience me doing it for him.

Ok cool, whatever, that's fine.

Want to know how much the dealership wanted to charge after the job was done? $250. $160 for 1.6 hours of labor and $75 for parts. Honda Service Bulletin pays .2 hours for replacing that part under warranty. Even if Honda is underpaying by 4x, this dealership was still charging 2x on top of that AND overcharging on the parts.

I could have done the same diagnostic work and part replacement in my garage in under an hour. I was so indirectly angry with this service department I complained to Honda corporate on coworker's behalf. I get that dealerships are in the for-profit industry, but there's a line between skimming a bit on the top and blatantly ripping people off.


2012 Accord EX-L AT V6 Sdn Crystal Black Pearl / Ivory (
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- CAI, J37 Intake + TB, TB Coolant Bypass, Ported Intake Runners, RV6 HFPC + JPipe (Ceramic Coated), PCV filter
- Koni FSDs, Voodoo13 6 Control Arms, Rear Ultra Racing Chassis Bracing, 22mm Rear + Acura TL Front, Akebono Performance Pads, Centric High Carbon Cryo rotors, SS lines.

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post #2 of 11 Old 12-05-2017, 05:43 PM
DIY Kid/Hypermiler

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Sounds like you are a good friend. I wish I liked my co-workers enough to want to help them.



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Ah so you do have a drinking problem. You do not drink enough.
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When I was little girl in Russia...

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You high?
2006 Honda Accord EX 6-6 Sedan Tafetta White 152K miles. DIY coroplast undertray, hybrid rear diffuser, Odyssey intake spacer milled down to 1.3", Engine block heater, Power steering delete, Acura RSX rims
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post #3 of 11 Old 12-05-2017, 05:52 PM
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Man that is a rip. I had a P0303, misfire in #3. The dealership said I should replace the rings on cylinders 1 thru 4, $2,000. My indy shop replaced the coil pack and plug for $149.

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post #4 of 11 Old 12-06-2017, 01:24 PM
pessimistic optimist

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And they do it to at least every third customer through the front door, six days a week, 52 weeks a year. Where I work in NOVA is probably second only to LA for folks who have ZERO knowledge of "fair pricing" for auto service, and far too much disposable income. As a service writer it would only take me a few days of people handing over the money when I inflate the bill by 10-15-20-25+% without a seconds hesitation before the light bulb would go off. A shop that is right behind my buildings charges $75 per tire for mounting and balancing! My favorite place near my house 75 miles away in WV charged me $10 bucks per last time they did it for me.

2008 EX sedan 2.4l, 3 pedals Killed by a dump truck 12-13-2017
Mods: Weapon R I Throttle, OE style lip spoiler, painted calipers, K&N drop in w/ resonator delete, Redline shift boot & armrest cover, Crosstour cluster, JDM style visors, retrofit headlights (morimoto h1 7.0) TL RSB well worth the wait
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post #5 of 11 Old 12-06-2017, 01:52 PM
Out of Control

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Quote:
Originally Posted by drowned12 View Post
I get that dealerships are in the for-profit industry, but there's a line between skimming a bit on the top and blatantly ripping people off.
Fine line??? It's like 8 feet wide and nothing but a rip off.

Mom took her car to the dealership for 2 things.
1. CEL was on and,
2. It made a funny noise.

They told her she needed
1. $300 tune up to fix CEL
2. $500 for new front struts to fix the noise.

I fixed for her
1. Plug the vacuum hose back into the MAP sensor (it had fallen off) - COST $0
2. Both front inner tie rods were shot. - COST - $20-30 each
3. Right rear strut was shot (she didn't even know she needed this) - COST $75

They were more than willing to charger her $800 for things she did not need. Bstrds knew all she needed was the vacuum line plugged back in. They didn't even address the noise.

2003 Accord EX I4 AT (mine), K&N drop in (surprised), JL Audio TR690Txi 6X9 in the rear
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post #6 of 11 Old 12-06-2017, 02:04 PM
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Like when I needed my radio code, $500 the local Honda dealer (claimed they had to rip the dash out). Went to where I bought & they looked it up on the Honda database by vin. # for free.

2004 4cyl. EX Sedan automatic 509K - 2017 EX automatic 2K
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post #7 of 11 Old 12-06-2017, 02:11 PM
4th Gear

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HA! I have a better one. Had my drivers CV axle replaced under warranty. I specifically stated no impact drivers and no power tools. Hand tools only!! I even provided an anti marring lug nut socket out of my own private tools. I also explicitly stated that I was concerned about the repair causing a misalignment. Anybody who has ever turned a wrench knows that working on anything related to suspension geometry will generally take the vehicle out of alignment in some form or fashion if only by a degree or two, which in turn will cause premature tire wear. "Oh yeah sure, if it requires an alignment afterwards we will gladly take care of it".

Fast forward about a month I'm performing my next scheduled oil change and while I let the oil drain I always perform a legit "multi point" inspection. I notice that the tech did not clean up the grease from the original axle, no big deal, he might have been in a hurry. Momentarily afterwards I knew I had been screwed. Their 30 year veteran tech had beat the hell out of my lower control arm with a hammer to pop the lower ball joint loose, I guess in 30 years he never discovered what a brass hammer was. In doing so he swung, missed and hit the rotor shield causing damage there as well. I decided that since I was going to rotate the tires anyways I had better start with this particular wheel so I could inspect closer to see the extent of the damages. I get my non marring wheel socket out and a 1/2 ratchet. HMMMM... That's funny I cant budge these lug nuts by hand. WEIRD. I ALWAYS torque to 90 ft/lbs and I can ALWAYS break them loose by hand. After jumping up and down on the ratchet to break each nut loose I am guessing they were all torqued to around 140 ft/lbs ish? Pissed at this point I pull the wheel off. WELLY WELL WELLLLLLL What do you know? The inside portion of the tires tread was GONE. No alignment was performed.

I spent about an hour on the phone with the service manager going over every detail of this situation. She tried to pull the "Honda doesn't recommend an alignment for this repair, we always follow the service procedures." HA, yeah right, so that's why when I ordered and installed my rear deck lid spoiler you didn't have the proper "rota broach" tool as stated in the installation instructions, I tried to rent it from you and was told that your guys use a standard jobber drill bit instead. I went and purchased this tool myself (sold it here on DA when I was done) just for this one install. Regardless of what Honda recommends your 30 year veteran tech didn't apply a little common sense in regards to the alignment. Furthermore you didn't offer an alignment to me at the time of service even as an up charge! Now I have a set of Michelin Pilot Sport AS3 that are going to need replaced at 1/2 their warranted life expectancy! I had no choice but to rotate the worn tire to another location for the time being and will have to continue to do so until a resolution is reached. I don't have the budget right now to buy a full set of tires and an alignment. And then we have the control arm damage and brake rotor shield bashed in.

God Help Me.
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post #8 of 11 Old 12-06-2017, 02:13 PM Thread Starter
Car so nice, bought twice

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Originally Posted by KW2004Accord View Post
Like when I needed my radio code, $500 the local Honda dealer (claimed they had to rip the dash out). Went to where I bought & they looked it up on the Honda database by vin. # for free.
I think you can DIY the radio code too:

2012 Accord EX-L AT V6 Sdn Crystal Black Pearl / Ivory (
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- CAI, J37 Intake + TB, TB Coolant Bypass, Ported Intake Runners, RV6 HFPC + JPipe (Ceramic Coated), PCV filter
- Koni FSDs, Voodoo13 6 Control Arms, Rear Ultra Racing Chassis Bracing, 22mm Rear + Acura TL Front, Akebono Performance Pads, Centric High Carbon Cryo rotors, SS lines.

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post #9 of 11 Old 12-06-2017, 02:23 PM Thread Starter
Car so nice, bought twice

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Originally Posted by DatsunSaves View Post
God Help Me.
I have 2 dealerships nearby that do free alignment checks (Tempe Honda and the dealership from the OP that I never go to). They don't even have to take your car "in the back" it's ready to go in the outdoor service lanes. When I did the FSD install I had them check it and I was fine so I drove off without paying a penny.

The "service manager" is worthless. Talk to the dealership general manager and they should make this right. Bottom line is their tech didn't follow the proper procedure, damaged your vehicle, and let it drive off without checking the alignment which literally takes 5 minutes to do. Proper procedure on the ball joint is a Honda specific ball joint separator that costs about $280 made by Mac Tools.

2012 Accord EX-L AT V6 Sdn Crystal Black Pearl / Ivory (
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)
- CAI, J37 Intake + TB, TB Coolant Bypass, Ported Intake Runners, RV6 HFPC + JPipe (Ceramic Coated), PCV filter
- Koni FSDs, Voodoo13 6 Control Arms, Rear Ultra Racing Chassis Bracing, 22mm Rear + Acura TL Front, Akebono Performance Pads, Centric High Carbon Cryo rotors, SS lines.

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post #10 of 11 Old 12-06-2017, 03:04 PM
Reverse Gear

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I just got a quote for turning my front rotors: $190. I told him he could do it if he gets it covered under warranty. The car's there anyway for the recall.

2007 Accord LX-SE 4d 5spd MT Graphite Pearl (was his, now son's)
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1992 Nissan Maxima SE 4AT
1986 Nissan Maxima SE 5MT
1981 Saab 900 Turbo 4D 3AT "The money pit" $5K+ in repairs in 2 years
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post #11 of 11 Old 12-06-2017, 04:04 PM
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Had my Dodge Stealth Twin Turbo in for an airbag sensor recall. I mentioned the recent notchiness in the 6 speed manual transmission shifter. They mentioned their 3000GT expert would be back on Monday and I should come back then. I did, and received a write-up stating the Getrag transmission will have to be replaced for $7,500. Then they gave me a $120 diagnostic bill.

I went on the 3000/Stealth International forum, and everyone said to just put GM Syncromesh fluid in there. The next day I did, and the trans shifted like butta! A week later, I called the stealership and told them I waned my $120 back. They refused.

Next day, as a courtesy, I stopped by my police department with a 4' X 8' sign saying "These mechanics are incompetent- ask me why!" and informed them I would be walking the sidewalk out front of the dealer with a website link on paper outlining my story.

After 20 minutes in front of the dealer, the extremely calm service manager came out to hear my side of the story. He said he would refund my money. I told him to give me the cash. He argued that this was not fair in that I could still contest it with my credit card AND get cash from him. In effect- I would "make" money. I thanked him for his time and he came out 10 minutes later with my $120 and some lame excuse. I told him I wanted the mechanic to come out and lay the cash at my feet. He stared at me for a couple of seconds then we both burst out laughing- but I got my cash.
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